La Bella Toscana

La Bella Toscana - photography by Paula G. Cullison

La Bella Toscana – Two Weeks in a Hilltop Village in Tuscany by Paula Giangreco Cullison

Finding Shangri-La in the hilltop towns of Italy is something many are realizing. As more and more of the young are moving from the old villages of Italy to the big cities, the country is making a major effort to attract buyers / new residents who want the simpler life. Rustic as some homes may be, the ability to commune with nature is outweighing modern conveniences. I had the opportunity to visit Julie Hampton, a friend who purchased such a home in Vitiana (near Pisa and Lucca).  It was a total dropout 2-week experience for me. To get to Julie’s home (Casa di Julie), we traversed a long steep and often-times narrow and long, winding road. The hairpin turns were heart stopping. BUT the charm of the village of about 100 and the scenery were amazingly lovely. The strong sense of community developed by the new inhabitants from a variety of countries, made this place very special.

Room with a View in Vitiana, Italy - photography by Paula G Cullison

Yes, they came from England, Australia, France, Hungary, Poland, Holland, and the US. Some found the town through word of mouth, others through an internet search. The bonding was evident as parties and social gatherings are commonplace. I arrived in time for the annual communal dinner in the piazza attended by 200 (including residents from adjacent villages). The village’s volunteer corps did the cooking for which each attendee paid 25 Euros. The Circolo (bar cafe) in the piazza provides the community with a meeting place and refreshments. Their evening gatherings and Sunday morning coffees were most enjoyable. The hospitable nature of both long-time residents and Expats alike makes one feel immediately welcome. When I first arrived, there was an invitation to attend a party for a British couple who had lived in Vitiana for 18 years and to honor Julie who bought her house 25 years ago through crowd funding. it was a quasi-potluck for about 40; we brought 15 bottles of wine.

One of the many dinner parties - fun gatherings of ExPats and locals

ExPats from France, England and Australia

It was an amazing time - NB: local author Mary Rita (dark hair)

A few days later, a French couple, restaurateurs from San Tropez, hosted an amazing culinary feast. They made wonderful hors d’oeuvres and paella and offered a wide variety of French cheese. We (about 30) enjoyed the sumptuous repast in their lovely garden. It was amazing! Shopping in the nearby town was interesting, as almost every business is independently owned: hardware/garden supply store, glass shop, wine shop (fills your empty bottles and corks them), gelato cafe, small restaurants. The COOP food market was the only exception.  Getting to know the local merchants is part of the experience. Many were proud third generation owners. We made several stops for gelato during my stay.

Cat Napping at Spannocchia, an historic agrotourism 1,100-acre estate –

To enliven this experience, we spent two nights at Spannocchia, an historic agrotourism 1,100-acre estate with roots in the 13th Century. Francesca Cinelli, whose grandfather bought the estate in 1925, now oversees and lives on the working farm. Student interns were enthusiastic about their experiences: culinary, farming, or animal husbandry. Lessons in Italian language are also provided to the interns. Those we met were from Maine, California, Tennessee, Alabama, Pennsylvania, and London. The huge farm estate with its pool, hammocks and yoga sessions, also hosts small group writing workshops. We enjoyed wine on the terrace and dinner in the evening. It was magical.

Here with Francesca Cinelli whose family owns Spannocciha and Julie Hampton who bought Casa di Julie in Vitiana 25 years ago through Crowd Funding

Welcome - Reception at Spannocchia (located near Siena) - Photography by Paula G. Cullison

On our return to Vitiana, we took a short detour to San Gimignano a UNESCO World Heritage medieval hill town famous for its tall towers and awesome views. Dalet, a small bookstore, caught our attention. The owner was pleased with our visit and interest.

San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage site with 14 tall towers and marketplace - Photography by Paula G. Cullison

We also visited the small hillside town of Lucignano, home to a lovely bookstore named Libreria Sopra la Penna which is considered a literary sanctuary. One day, we checked out properties for sale - some in town others on hillside locations: Valdottavo, Borgo a Mozzanno, Rocca, and Cune, as Julie is launching My Borgo.

Small Town (in city) living Toscana - Photography by Paula G. Cullison

 For part-time residents, remote home ownership can be a challenge. There is the constant upkeep and question of should you rent to help pay for these costs. With an eye towards retirement, many are finding a way to balance this during the process. It’s certainly worth investigating.

Buon Viaggio! Buon Vacanze!

The wonderful people I meet: local entrepreneurs, residents, and expats