Another AWESOME Travel Adventure

The Head (Eros Bendato) by sculptor Igor Mitoraj - Art in Main Square Krakow, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

Our AWESOME travel adventure was to Finland, Estonia, Poland, and Italy. It does take a great deal of time and effort to plan international trips, especially to countries where you have not been. And so, I set out to plan our latest 5-week international adventure with a few travel quotes in mind: “Oh, the Places You’ll Go. Oh, the People You’ll Meet”, noted Dr Seuss. "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness", Mark Twain advised. Contemporary travel advisor Rick Steves urges us to “Keep on Traveling”.  I learned a long time ago to travel light with only carry-on. Yes, it is possible.

Fact and Fiction - Two allegorical figures in the Esplanade Helsinki, Finland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

For many years, I have been a member of SERVAS, an international non-profit organization that promotes world peace through travel. To that point, I often think of the song from the Broadway musical and film “South Pacific” titled Getting to Know You.

In preparation for this trip, I met with Olli Honkkila, our local Honorary Consul from Finland, and printed out the SERVAS Member directory for contacts in the cities of Helsinki, Finland; Tallinn, Estonia; Gdansk, Wroclaw, Krakow, and Warsaw, Poland. This may be the last time that we can secure Business Class tickets for 60K frequent flyer miles (each leg / pp). Sadly, all Airlines have tripled and quadrupled the number of ff miles for international flights. My 20-year run of using frequent flyer miles for more than a dozen international trips may be coming to an end.

My ‘go to’ hotel sights are booking.com and hotels.com, as they offer a wide range of choices. I try to stay within walking distance of the main train stations, as we rely on public transportation.  I generally pay a bit more for the pay at hotel or 48-hour cancellation and with breakfast options. We like to take our time: have breakfast at 9am and start our day at about 11am.  For the past few years, I have secured Allianz Travel Insurance which offers a year’s worth of travel coverage for the same price as one trip. That was a nice surprise.  We flew Business Class using ff miles on American Airlines / Finnair: Phoenix - London - Helsinki. Our return was also Business Class using ff miles on Condor / Alaska: Frankfurt - Seattle - Phoenix.

Senate Square with Statue of Tsar Alexander II and the Cathedral Helsinki, Finland     Photography by Paula G. Cullison

Our six nights in Helsinki at Scandic Grand Marina Hotel was awesome. The city is a delight and we were within walking distance from the main areas. During my dinner meeting with Olli Honkkila, Honorary Consul for Finland in Arizona, I asked him how come his country is the considered to be the Happiest in the World. His comment was interesting. Olli noted that all children are raised to be content with what they have. So, in actuality, Finland is a nation of the world’s most contented people. Their standard of living is high and education is free. Although healthcare is not entirely free, it’s low cost.  Helsinki, a city with a population of 685,000, is home to the beautifully designed Oodi Central Library, often called the city’s living room. It’s so inviting and impressive. One can play chess, sit outside on the terrace, eat in the café, use a 3D printer or check out a book from its vast collection of 100,000 books.

Finnish National Theater with statue of Aleksis Kivi   Helsinki, Finland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

While in Helsinki, we spent time people-watching as we walked along and sat on a bench in the tree line Esplanade. There we listened to a young musician sing and play guitar. Helsinki is a walkable city and its public transportation system is great. One afternoon, we met up with Olli’s childhood friend Antti Belinskij, an environmental lawyer, who led us on a walking tour of the city. We passed the Senate Square where political rallies and other gatherings are held, passed the Art Deco train station, the Atheneum Museum (which we visited) and to the Oodi library.  We were excited when we received an invitation from Minna-Maria and Jarmo (and Rael their dog) SERVAS day hosts.  Their lovely apartment was within walking distance from our hotel. We enjoyed hearing about their lives and their travels, as we enjoyed delicious pastry and coffee.

The Moomins (Manumit) are the beloved cartoon characters in Finland

Created by Tove Jansson

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

We took a one-day outing to Soumenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which is an historic sea fortress built by Sweden in the 1700s.  It was later defended by Russia and finally became part of an independent Finland in 1917.

The Finns love outdoor restaurant seating during the summer. Helsinki, Finland   Photography by Paula Cullison

Before our trip, I Googled about possible concerts in the cities we were to visit. Several years prior, Tim and I attended a Phoenix Symphony Concert featuring Rajaton, the a cappella group from Helsinki Finland, who sang the music of ABBA. After the concert, as they signed our CD, I told them that one day we would visit Finland and that hopefully they would be in concert. As luck would have it, Rajaton had a concert scheduled at Sibelius Concert Hall in the city of Lahti which is located on the tip of Lake Vesijarvi and about an hour’s train ride from Helsinki. When we arrived for the matinee concert, we came upon the Lahti Historic Rally featuring road cars with 50 teams from 13 countries. We watched as several zoomed by before we headed to the concert. Completed in 2000, the Sibelius Concert Hall, with its wooden auditorium and its world class acoustics, has a seating capacity of 1,200. The concert was AWESOME. Rajaton gave three encores; the attendees then stood and sang.

Tallinn, Estonia - View of the UNESCO Old Town and Toompea Hill

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

We headed to Tallinn, Estonia by high-speed ferry boat which was more of a mini cruise ship than the NYC Staten Island Ferry. The trip was about two and a half hours. Taxis awaited passengers and so we were whisked off to Original Sokos Hotel Virtu which (unbeknownst to us) housed the KGB Museum on the 26th floor. Of course, we visited and learned about all of the spy equipment / devices used during the Soviet occupation.  Situated across the street from the Old Town, the hotel was connected to the Viru Centre with its shopping mall, restaurants, and bus terminal. We were fascinated by the charming old town where we attended a Bach organ concert at Holy Spirit Church and walked its cobblestone streets.  We connected with Katrin Alliksaar whom I met a few years ago via Facebook, as a result of a comment I noted on the Metropolitan Opera page when they streamed free performances during COVID. Katrin, a corporate lawyer, suggested dinner at the Rado Restaurant in Old Town. It was delightful to meet her. We shared travel experiences and our love of opera. Tallin’s well preserved Old City was an important Hanseatic city and now is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After Danish, Swedish and Russian rule, as well as Soviet occupation, Tallinn became the re-gained capital of independent Estonia in 1991. The Town Hall Square, with its Gothic buildings, old Pharmacy, and restaurants, is a popular meeting spot. From there we walked to Toompea Hill (Toompea Castle and Parliament) for a view of the city. We also visited Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (built 1894 – 1900) when Estonia was part of the former Russian Empire. This was our first visit to a Baltic country. However, I was in the then USSR and Ukraine in 1987 when I attended the World Congress of Women which was held in the Kremlin and addressed by Mikhail Gorbachev. Memories! On our final evening in Tallinn, we met up with Jana Reikop of SERVAS. We had a lovely time, as we shared travel and other experiences. Jana is a nurse who has traveled extensively and has lived and worked in Japan.  The best part of traveling is meeting the locals.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Tallinn, Estonia

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

After our 5 nights in Tallin, we flew to Gdansk, Poland via LOT Polish Airlines. Our warm welcome was by Ola Serwinska (retired teacher) and Wlodzimierz Serwinski (retired engineer) who picked us up at the airport and hosted us for two nights in their very modern and beautifully designed home and lovely garden in the Kielno area of Gdansk. After breakfast the next morning, Ola drove us to the Kashubian area where we hiked in the forested Wiezyca area dedicated to Pope John Paul II and then we visited Slawutowo, the Medieval folk village.  The Kashubian people are holding on to their unique language, culture and traditions. Ola also drove us to the section of Gdansk known as Oliwa, so we could catch a glimpse of Lech Walesa’s home.  We enjoyed listening to Ola and Wlod’s travel tales and loved their adventurous spirit.

Folk Art - Kashubian design - Gdansk, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

We spent the next three nights at the IBB Hotel in Gdansk’s charming Old Town. The pedestrian only cobblestoned area of Dlugi Street (Long Street) is resplendent with historic buildings, restaurants and its beautiful Neptune Fountain designed by Italian sculptor Tommaso Caccini in 1633. We walked along picturesque Mariacka Street, known for its amber shops, and then stopped at the 14th Century St Mary’s Basilica with its astronomical clock and seating capacity for over 20,000. As Gdansk is situated on the banks of the Motlawa River which flows into the Vistula River on the Baltic Sea, it was an important city in the Hanseatic League. It has been described as a political and economic powerhouse for trade.

Neptune Fountain designed by Italian Sculptor Tommaso Caccini in 1633  Gdansk, Poland    Photography by Paula G. Cullison

The next SERVAS member with whom we met was Grazyna Zajder a psychotherapist who had spent 14 months in Sicily (where my parents are from). We took the train to Sopot; Grazyna met us at the station. She invited us for dinner at her home. We met her husband Mariusz, and her friend Anna Solas, who is also a member of SERVAS. We had a delicious dinner and fabulous conversations. Anna has been a tour guide in Morocco for 20 years. Grazyna drove us back to our hotel in Gdansk in the pouring rain. She was so kind. The next day she came to our hotel and we had a nice walk around the Old Town and then stopped at a local outdoor café by the water facing the new theater. We enjoyed two types of herring, rye bread and beer. She contacted her colleague Michal Rozko, a psychotherapist in Wroclaw, with whom we later met. The hospitality we continued to experience was so absolutely wonderful. 

Green Gate – Dlugi Street in Gdansk, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

The next day we met with another SERVAS member - Wojciech Dabrowski aka Wojtek, a retired engineer who has traveled to over 100 countries (actually 238 when including dependencies). He came to see us at the hotel and then he gave us a delightful walking tour full of historical facts about Gdansk. When we took the bus to his home, he told us that since we are senior citizens, all public transportation is free in Poland. Some years ago, Wojtek had secured a plot of land, known as Ogrodki Dzialkowe, from the Polish Government to build a tiny home and vegetable garden. Wojtek built the small A- Frame knotty pine log house by himself. Quite a variety of vegetables and a few fruit trees seem to flourish in his garden. For our lunch, he made a delicious green vegetable soup and for dessert an apple cobbler – apples from his tree and baked by a friend. He served us a liqueur (Nalewka) which he made from dark berries, also from one of his fruit trees. The only cooking appliance he has is a double hot plate which he used to boil water for instant coffee. AMAZING!!!  I think the only groceries he buys are bread, butter and cheese. The crawl space in his home is accessed by narrow step-shelves which also serve as a ladder. In it he has a few mattresses for guests. Since there is no heat in the house, Wojtek has been booking back-to-back inexpensive cruises for the winter months. He has a huge collection of CDs - videos and photos which he has taken on his travels.  Wojtek is the only person I have ever met who actually lives off the land. BRAVO

Grunwald Bridge - Wroclaw, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

I had never heard of Wroclaw before planning this trip. But on the advice from friend Sandy whose family was originally from that city, I decided to add it to our itinerary. What a wonderful surprise! The train ride from Gdansk to Wroclaw was a scenic 4 ½ hour trip. I had booked the Tulip Hotel near the Old Town for 4 nights. On one of my Google searches, I bought concert tickets for a performance at the lovely Opera House which honored the work and memory of soprano Ewa Czermak. While walking, we found the awesome Vertigo Jazz Club with a terrific combo and singer, and a local pierogi café. At the hotel we met six women from Ireland who are childhood friends. Back in the day, they were all marathon runners. Now in their 70s, they enjoy traveling together. Every evening, we found them in the lobby enjoying a glass of wine. I told them about the free bus / tram rides for seniors.  Wroclaw is a delightful city with its historic architecture, Market Square, St Elizabeth’s Church, Millennium Bridge, Wroclaw University and of course the darling Dwarves (Krasnale). We saw many of the 1,000 dwarves on our walking tour of Wroclaw. The boat ride on the Oder River was a nice way to relax and enjoy the views. The city has many riverside restaurants, as well as a great variety in the pedestrian-only squares.

Statue of author / playwright Aleksander Fredro - Market Square (Rynek) Wroclaw, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

Michal Rozko met us at the statue of Aleksander Fredro. We had a most enjoyable walk around the city and then went for coffee at an outdoor café. The next day, we met Michal and his lovely wife Agata near Centennial Hall at the Four Domes Pavillion Museum and Contemporary Art where we were introduced to many of Poland’s top modern artists. The museum is well designed and allows for good natural lighting. On the grounds is a large area which hosts local outdoor concerts; adjacent to which is the well-manicured Japanese Garden in Szczytnicki Park.

Dwarves (Krasnale).  Wroclaw, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

Onward to Krakow via a 2 ½ hour train ride. I booked the Hotel H12 for 4 nights as it was in the Old Town. Krakow is Poland’s second largest city with a population of 800,000. Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site with its Main Square, St Mary’s Basilica (hourly bugle call), Cloth Hall, Wawel Castle and Cathedral. A visit to the Wieliczka Salt Mine is a popular stop, but we decided to take a pass.

Main Square – Krakow, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

We took two main walking tours in Krakow: one of the Old Town and Castle and the other of the Jewish district. A walk through the Kazimierz Jewish section of Krakow, is a walk through history.  One can pause in Ghetto Heroes Square (Placa Bohaterow Getta) and contemplate the powerful Empty Chairs Memorial sculpture by Marek Dziekanski. Each of the 70 chairs represents the lives and homes lost during the Holocaust.

Seated statue of the resistance fighter Jan Karski by Karol Badnya

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

A short distance away on Street is the seated statue by Karol Badnya of the resistance fighter Jan Karski, who reported on the Holocaust to the Allies and was awarded the Order of the White Eagle - the highest decoration in Poland. We met up with SERVAS members Ewa and Andrzej Kowalunas at the Main Square (Rynek Glowny) by Igor Mitoraj’s bronze sculpture, Eros Bendato, which is located near the Town Hall Tower. They are both retired educators; Ewa from teaching English and Andrzej from teaching Japanese. Both have traveled extensively in Europe and Southeast Asia. We walked over to a popular artists’ café for coffee, as we shared travel experiences. We learned that education is free in Poland … no matter one’s age or focus of study.

The day trip to Zakopane in the Tatra Mountains was definitely worth it. I had seen a PBS special on this region and was so very impressed. Its Krupowki Street is lined with restaurants and kiosks. A winter haven for skiers, Zakopane also attracts a huge summer crowd. We stopped at Chocholow Baths and at Witow for some cheese and vodka along the way. I booked the trip via TripAdvisor.

War Uprising Monument on Krasinski Square – Warsaw, Poland

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

The train ride from Krakow to Warsaw took 2 ½ hours. My main concern with the trains in Poland is that one must climb up/down three very steep steps to enter/exit the designated train wagon while carrying one’s luggage. The gap between the train and the platform is another concern for me, as I am a petite woman. Fortunately, someone always offered to help. I am so grateful for the kindness of strangers. Tickets are available via polishtrains.eu

We stayed at the IBIS Stare Miasto Old Town in Warsaw for 2 nights. I had purchased tickets online for a Chopin Concert at the Fryderyk Hall which was both elegant and intimate. Koki Suetsugu, a young pianist from Japan, gave a performance that was heavenly.

We met with Hania Bethell (our friends’ daughter) and her fiancée Paul Brzezizki at the Stolica Restaurant for dinner. It was a lovely evening; we took an outside table. The restaurant faces a pedestrian only passageway, so it was quiet.  Duck was on the menu … my second in Poland. It was delicious. Hania (from Arizona) and Paul (from Utah) met in Warsaw about 5 years ago, when both were teaching English at a local private school. Since then, they both have different positions in totally different fields. They love living in Warsaw and are enjoying their jobs. Warsaw, with a population of almost 2 million, is the capital of Poland. Its extensive network of public transportation makes it easy to get around. The city has numerous small neighborhood parks and a good amount of public art. The UNESCO-listed picturesque Old Town is adjacent to the Vistula River and is a popular gathering place. We decided on a Hop On / Hop Off tour of the city, as our time was limited. We then met up with Matthew Jernstedt and his wife Kelly the following afternoon at the hotel. Matthew, a Phoenix College and Arizona State University grad, is now working for the US Department of State at the American Embassy in Warsaw. Hania joined us. I had recommended Matthew for the job with the Dept of State where his first assignment was India.  It looks like his international career is off to a good start.

Dolomites in La Bella Italia

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

Wanting to visit my family’s ancestral homeland of Italy (again for the ninth time), I decided to add Venice and Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Dolomites. We flew from Warsaw to Venice (Marco Polo Airport) via WIZZ Air and then took the Dolomiti bus to Cortina. I have been to Cortina twice before, but a while ago when the airport was fairly small. Times … they are a changing. Cortina is one of the sites for the Winter Olympics 2026. Hotels are being constructed in haste and infrastructure is being upgraded; locals are hopeful about the progress. We certainly enjoyed our 3 nights in beautiful Cortina with its pedestrian only Corso Italia, shops, cafes and restaurants. One day we took the Cima Tofana Cable Car (located by the Olympic Stadium) for a few hours of relaxation and of breathtaking views

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

We were able to take the Dolomiti bus directly to Venice Piazzale Roma. I found a hotel within walking distance (only two small bridges to climb). This was Tim’s first time there and he was amazed. Back in the day, I studied in Venice and then about 20 years ago I returned with our daughter, Pamela.  Now that it was the first week in September, the crowds in Venice were manageable. We bought the Venice Pass for the vaporettos; it included admission to some sites, e.g. the Doge’s Palace. Like most other tourists, we spent time people-watching in St Mark’s Square while sipping coffee at the famous Caffe Florian which opened in 1720. Their live orchestra played popular favorites, as well as a few classical works. Yes, it was the most expensive coffee you will ever have … so enjoy the scene. We also headed to the roof top bar at Hotel Daniele for a Bellini while we watched the sunset over la Bella Venezia. Being on the Grand Canal as you view the awesome architectural gems is an immeasurable treat. A visit to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is a must. She basically discovered and encouraged modern artists before it became fashion.

Rialto Bridge    Venice, Italy

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

A short boat ride away are the islands of Murano (for its glass) and Burano (for its lace). A small number of the Murano glass factories are open to the public for viewing demonstrations. When I inquired at one of the lace shops in Burano about this dying art, I was informed that the owner’s mother, the primary lacemaker, would be at the shop at 3pm. We returned at the appointed hour. An octogenarian, Emilia continues to make beautiful lace creations while daughter Annamaria manages the shop.  In addition to intricate lace creations, Burano’s charm also lies in its colorful houses. Fishermen painted their homes bright colors, so they could navigate their way in the evenings and during foggy days.

Island of Burano, Italy

Photography by Paula G. Cullison

A short ride by vaporetto took us to the small island of San Georgio Maggiore. From there, we enjoyed a lovely view of Venice. The church has a number of important paintings by Tintoretto, Carpaccio, and Bassano. The adjacent museum hosted Le Stanze del Vetro, a retrospective exhibition of the legendary Murano glass masters. As our trip came to an end, we returned to the Marco Polo Airport for our flight to Frankfurt and stayed at the Sheraton Airport Hotel which is located inside the enormous and very modern terminal. Our flight the next day back to Phoenix was on Condor Airlines / Alaska in Business Class (using ff miles). WOW!!!

Dr Seuss was correct: “Oh, the Places You’ll Go / Oh, the People You’ll Meet”.

I have been to about 60 countries, and I still love the adventure of travel.

As you prepare for your next trip, I wish you a Bon Voyage - Buon Viaggio - Gute Reise - Buen Viaje. Keep on Traveling!!